Name: Rafał Ostrowski
room: A52
phone: (+48)585222952
e-mail: dd0a2557ece5a3903bd353899119022fedbe83f392
ORCID: 0000-0002-0149-6744
Ostrowski R.
Morphodynamics of a multi-bar coastal zone
publisher: Wydawnictwo IBW PAN
ISBN: 8385708642
published in: 2004
language: en
Summary: The book comprises the description and experimental verification of a new mathematical model of sediment motion on a multi-bar shore profile and the variability of this profile. In the model, accuracy in determination of resultant sediment transport at each location of the shore profile plays a key role in the description of coastal morphodynamics. The computed sediment transport rates depend on correctness of theoretical representation of wave transformation on a sloped (multi-bar) sea bed, as well as on proper modelling of wave-induced currents.
In the monograph, wave-current interactions in the nearbed layer give rise to resultant sediment transport rate, which is principally dependent on a very delicate imbalance between an onshore flow caused by vertical asymmetry of wave shape and the wave-driven return current directed offshore. An attempt has been undertaken to prove the fundamental thesis of the present work, according to which the cross-shore sediment transport rate, resulting from wave asymmetry, is modified quantitatively and even qualitatively (sediment motion opposite to wave propagation) by influence of the offshore directed undertow.
The theoretical results have been verified against the experimental data from literature, the laboratory data collected in IBW PAN wave flume and the field data registered at the Coastal Research Station in Lubiatowo. A part of the book is devoted to solution of practical problems encountered in coastal engineering. The present monograph shows that a big progress has been achieved in the realm of coastal dynamics. This progress indicates the directions of further research.
Rafał Ostrowski
Problemy dynamiki i ochrony piaszczystych brzegów południowego Bałtyku
publisher: Wydawnictwo IBW PAN
ISBN: 9788385708827
published in: 2019
language: pl
Summary: The present monograph focuses on the south Baltic coast and, in particular, on the Polish nearshore zone extending to a depth of a dozen or so metres. The monograph discusses the most important and the most characteristic processes of coastal dynamics, namely, the motion of water and sandy sediments under interacting waves, wave-driven and wind-induced currents, as well as the evolution of the sea shore and sea bed in various time-spatial scales, including coastal engineering interventions. Particular processes ruling the coastal dynamics are described in the order in which they appear in the causal chain of phenomena taking place in the coastal zone. They are presented from the perspective of a researcher investigating the mechanics of water and sediments motion by means of laboratory and field experiments, according to deterministic mathematical models developed mostly at the Institute of Hydro-Engineering of the Polish Academy of Sciences (IBW PAN) in Gdańsk. The models are based on a classical theoretical description of wave transformation and breaking, wave-driven currents, bed shear stresses, transport of sandy sediments, sea bed level changes and shoreline evolution. The author’s approach to the abovementioned issues basically does not differ from fundamental contemporary standards in the domain of shore protection. The author aims to share the experience gained from his work at the IBW PAN Department of Coastal Engineering and Dynamics. The knowledge presented in the monograph comes from the Polish and international literature, as well as from scientific and commercial engineering projects led by the author or those in which he participated. It is impossible to address all problems related to the dynamics and protection of non-tidal sandy shores in a single book. Dozens of thick volumes have already been devoted to the sole topic of sea waves and their transformation in the coastal zone. The same is true about the other hydrodynamic coastal processes (such as wave-driven currents and water circulation in river mouths and in transitional waters), as well as lithodynamic and morphodynamic processes. In the present monograph, some problems are therefore only briefly mentioned, and it is suggested that the reader obtains more information from the references cited. The presentation of the topics is not overly sophisticated, making them accessible to many readers beyond specialists professionally involved with coastal dynamics and sea shore protection. The author sincerely hopes that the book will also be appreciated by those who wish to obtain a basic knowledge of the subject matter.