|Local Wave Energy Dissipation and Morphological Beach Characteristics along a Northernmost Segment of the Polish Coast
|91 — 108
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|coastal morphology, wave energy dissipation, equilibrium profiles, data-drivenmodelling, signal processing
|This paper analyses cross-shore bathymetric profiles between Władysławowo (km 125 of thePolish coastal chainage) and Lake Sarbsko (km 174) done in 2005 and 2011. Spaced every500 m, they cover beach topography from dune/cliff crests to a seabed depth of about 15 m.They were decomposed by signal processing techniques to extract the monotonic componentof beach topography and to perform a straightforward assessment of wave energy dissipa-tion rates. Three characteristic dissipation patterns were identified: one associated with largenearshore bars and 2–3 zones of wave breaking; a second, to which the equilibrium beachprofile concept can be applied; and a third, characterized by mixed behaviour. An attemptwas then made to interpret these types of wave energy dissipation in terms of local coastalmorphological features and the underlying sedimentary characteristics.
| [reviewed] [scientific]
|Archives of Hydro-Engineering and Environmental Mechanics
|Vol. 65, No. 2