ATTRIBUTE | VALUE |
type | A |
database id | 9020 |
title | Comparison of Design Wave Heights Determined on the Basis of Long- and Short-term Measurement Data |
authors | Szmytkiewicz M., Szmytkiewicz P., Marcinkowski T. |
pages | 123 — 142 |
DOI | 10.1515/heem-2018-0009 |
full text link | https://www.sciendo.com/article/10.1515/heem-2018-0009 |
keywords | Wave Measurements, Reconstruction of Waves in the Baltic, Weibull distribution, Gumbel distribution |
affiliations | - Institute of Hydro-Engineering, Polish Academy of Sciences, ul. Kościerska 7, 80-953 Gdańsk, Poland
- Instytut Morski w Gdańsku, ul. Długi Targ 41/42, 22-100 Gdańsk, Polande-mail: P.Szmytkiewicz@ibwpan.gda.pl
|
abstracts | The objective of this study is to determine differences between design wave heights determinedon the basis of short- and long-term wave trains. Wave parameters measured over a period of7.47 years in the vicinity of Coastal Research Station Lubiatowo were used as short-term wavedata, while wave parameters determined through the so-called wave reconstruction for a periodof 44 years for the same region and depth were used as long-term wave data. The results of thecalculations lead to the conclusions the significant wave height distributions obtained for shortand long-term wave data are similar. |
attributes | [reviewed] [scientific] |
language | en |
ATTRIBUTE | VALUE |
type | A |
database id | 9019 |
title | Local Wave Energy Dissipation and Morphological Beach Characteristics along a Northernmost Segment of the Polish Coast |
authors | Różyński G. |
pages | 91 — 108 |
DOI | 10.1515/heem-2018-0007 |
full text link | https://sciendo.com/article/10.1515/heem-2018-0007 |
keywords | coastal morphology, wave energy dissipation, equilibrium profiles, data-drivenmodelling, signal processing |
affiliations | - Institute of Hydro-Engineering, Polish Academy of Sciences, ul. Kościerska 7, 80-953 Gdańsk, Polande-mail: grzegorz@ibwpan.gda.pl
|
abstracts | This paper analyses cross-shore bathymetric profiles between Władysławowo (km 125 of thePolish coastal chainage) and Lake Sarbsko (km 174) done in 2005 and 2011. Spaced every500 m, they cover beach topography from dune/cliff crests to a seabed depth of about 15 m.They were decomposed by signal processing techniques to extract the monotonic componentof beach topography and to perform a straightforward assessment of wave energy dissipa-tion rates. Three characteristic dissipation patterns were identified: one associated with largenearshore bars and 2–3 zones of wave breaking; a second, to which the equilibrium beachprofile concept can be applied; and a third, characterized by mixed behaviour. An attemptwas then made to interpret these types of wave energy dissipation in terms of local coastalmorphological features and the underlying sedimentary characteristics. |
attributes | [reviewed] [scientific] |
language | en |
ATTRIBUTE | VALUE |
type | A |
database id | 9017 |
title | Influence of Wave Shape on Sediment Transport in Coastal Regions |
authors | Ostrowski R. |
pages | 73 — 90 |
DOI | 10.1515/heem-2018-0006 |
full text link | https://www.sciendo.com/article/10.1515/heem-2018-0006 |
keywords | wave shape, nearbed free stream velocities, wave-driven currents, cross-shoresediment transport, longshore sediment transport |
affiliations | - Institute of Hydro-Engineering, Polish Academy of Sciences, ul. Kościerska 7, 80-953 Gdańsk, Polande-mail: rafal.o@ibwpan.gda.pl
|
abstracts | The paper deals with the influence of the wave shape, represented by water surface elevationsand wave-induced nearbed velocities, on sediment transport under joint wave-current impact.The focus is on the theoretical description of vertically asymmetric wave motion and the effectsof wave asymmetry on net sediment transport rates during interaction of coastal steady cur-rents, namely wave-driven currents, with wave-induced unsteady free stream velocities. Thecross-shore sediment transport is shown to depend on wave asymmetry not only quantitatively(in terms of rate), but also qualitatively (in terms of direction). Within longshore lithodynamics,wave asymmetry appears to have a significant effect on the net sediment transport rate. |
attributes | [reviewed] [scientific] |
language | en |