Instytut Budownictwa Wodnego
Polskiej Akademii Nauk

Essay #9005 details

database id9005
titleParticle trajectories and mass transport under mechanically generated nonlinear water waves
authorsPaprota M.1, Sulisz W.1
pages102101-1 — 102101-8
abstractsA theoretical model is developed to study the kinematics of water particles and mass transport of wave-induced flow generated in a closed flume. A semi-analytical pseudo-spectral solution to the problem of mechanically generated nonlinear water waves propagating at a constant depth is derived under the potential flow assumptions. Velocity potential and free-surface displacement functions are represented in a form based on Fourier series. The eigenfunction expansions are resolved by means of a Fast Fourier Transform technique and a higher order time-stepping procedure. The derived nonlinear solution of the wavemaker problem is based on Taylor series representation of the free-surface and wavemaker boundary conditions expanded up to an arbitrary truncation order. This technique is employed to study the evolution of a velocity field and particle trajectories under regular gravity waves generated in a wave flume. The instantaneous velocity fields are integrated in time to calculate the particle trajectories and time-averaged spatial distribution of Lagrangian and Eulerian mean velocities. The theoretical results are compared with the available experimental data. A good agreement is observed, which confirms the applicability of the presented theory to the problems of transport processes associated with the propagation of water waves and their generation in the flume.
attributes [reviewed] [scientific]
database id9003
seriesPhysics of Fluids
issueVolume 30, Issue 10


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